Three Days in Puerto Rico: Sun, Salsa, and Something Stronger
By Kate Johnson
The fan above me in Room 214 of the Hotel El Convento turned lazily, cutting through the thick, tropical air with a sense of purpose that I, still groggy from the flight, could not yet muster. My room—a converted nun’s cell, as the hotel was once a convent—felt as if it had been transported directly from the 17th century. The whitewashed walls, mahogany furnishings, and checkered floor tiles evoked a kind of austere elegance, softened only by the soft light filtering through the wooden shutters. Outside, the coquí frogs were already in full chorus, their high-pitched calls harmonizing with the distant hum of Old San Juan.
Puerto Rico, an island that somehow manages to balance the weight of its history with the vibrant pulse of the present, is a place where the past is never far from the surface. Over the next three days, I would explore this unique blend of old and new—wandering the narrow streets of Old San Juan, venturing into the lush rainforest of El Yunque, and immersing myself in the lively nightlife that has made San Juan a hotspot for those in search of good food, good music, and a good time. And, of course, I’d be doing it all with a glass of rum in hand, because what’s a trip to Puerto Rico without a little indulgence?
Day 1: Exploring Old San Juan
My first morning in Puerto Rico began with a cup of strong coffee and a plate of huevos rancheros at Café Mallorca, a local institution just a short stroll from the hotel. The café, with its vintage vibe and the scent of freshly baked mallorcas (sweet Puerto Rican pastries), was the perfect spot to ease into the day. After breakfast, I wandered the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, taking in the pastel-colored buildings with their wrought-iron balconies, each one a small masterpiece in itself.
My first stop was El Morro, the imposing fortress that has guarded the entrance to San Juan Bay since the 16th century. As I walked through the thick stone walls and gazed out over the Atlantic, I couldn’t help but marvel at the history that surrounded me. The fortress was a labyrinth of tunnels, dungeons, and sweeping views—each turn revealing a new perspective of the city and the sea. Despite the mid-morning heat, a breeze off the ocean kept things bearable, and I found myself lingering longer than expected, lost in the stories these old walls seemed to whisper.
Lunch that day was at La Guerita, a small eatery tucked away on Calle San José. The place was nothing fancy, just a handful of tables and a menu that offered a handful of Puerto Rican classics. I ordered the arroz mamposteao, a hearty dish of rice and beans with a side of tender pernil (roast pork). The flavors were as vibrant as the walls of the restaurant, and as I ate, I struck up a conversation with the owner, who shared stories of the neighborhood and the challenges of keeping a small business afloat in these uncertain times.
Day 2: A Rainforest Adventure
I woke early the next day, eager to escape the city’s hustle and explore the natural wonders of El Yunque National Forest. The drive from San Juan took just over an hour, winding through small towns and rolling hills before climbing into the verdant rainforest. El Yunque is a place of almost mythical beauty—a lush, green wonderland where the air is thick with moisture and the sound of rushing water is never far away.
I chose the La Mina Falls trail, a popular hike that promised a refreshing dip at the end. The path wound through dense jungle, past towering trees and the occasional burst of colorful flowers. The trail was well-maintained, but the humidity was relentless, and by the time I reached the falls, I was more than ready for a swim. La Mina Falls cascaded down a rocky cliff into a cool, clear pool that was crowded with fellow hikers, all of us eager to cool off and relax. The water was invigorating, and I spent a good hour there, soaking in the beauty and chatting with other travelers who were just as enchanted by the place as I was.
After returning to San Juan in the late afternoon, I treated myself to an early dinner at Marmalade, one of the city’s top fine dining spots. The restaurant, housed in a colonial building on Calle Fortaleza, was an oasis of calm and elegance. Chef Peter Schintler’s tasting menu was a journey in itself, with dishes like the famous white bean soup and the lamb wellington, each course a delicate balance of flavors that showcased the island’s rich culinary traditions. The service was impeccable, and by the time I left, I felt as though I had experienced something truly special.
Day 3: Dancing the Night Away
My final day in Puerto Rico was all about leisure. I spent the morning exploring the historic district at a slower pace, popping into shops and galleries, and stopping for a midday snack at Señor Paleta, where the artisanal popsicles provided a welcome relief from the heat. The afternoon was dedicated to relaxation, and I returned to El Convento for a swim in the hotel’s rooftop pool, which offered stunning views of the city and the bay beyond.
As evening fell, I headed out for one last adventure: a night in La Placita, San Juan’s renowned nightlife district. By day, La Placita is a bustling marketplace, but after dark, it transforms into the city’s most vibrant social scene. The streets around the plaza were packed with people—locals and tourists alike—dancing, drinking, and enjoying the warm night air. I found myself at Taberna Los Vázquez, a lively bar that had been recommended by a friend. The mojitos were strong, the music was infectious, and the crowd was friendly, welcoming me into their celebrations as if I were an old friend.
The night was a blur of music and movement. I was pulled into dance after dance, my two left feet no match for the locals who seemed to glide across the pavement as if born to it. By the time I finally called it a night, I was sweaty, exhausted, and happier than I had been in a long time. The energy of La Placita was unlike anything I had ever experienced, a pure expression of joy that was impossible to resist.
The Final Morning: Adiós, Pero No Adiós
The next morning, I found myself back at Café Mallorca for one last breakfast. As I sat at my usual table, sipping coffee and nibbling on a mallorca, I reflected on my time in Puerto Rico. In just three days, the island had managed to capture my heart, with its rich history, stunning natural beauty, and the warmth of its people. There’s a saying in Puerto Rico: “El que se va, siempre regresa.” Those who leave, always return. As I packed my bags and headed to the airport, I knew that this wouldn’t be my last visit. After all, there’s still so much more to explore, so many more stories to uncover, and so many more dances to be danced under the stars of San Juan.
