MIAMI
Mutra Brings Israeli Culinary Experimentation to North Miami
2188 NE 123 St | Website | Instagram | Reservations
By Eric Barton | Feb. 25, 2025
Miami’s dining scene has no shortage of ambitious restaurants, but few arrive with the kind of personal mythology that fuels Mutra. Named for Chef Raz Shabtai’s grandmother, the new North Miami eatery promises a freewheeling interpretation of Israeli and Levantine cuisine—one that resists easy categorization but leans heavily on nostalgia, high technique, and a devotion to local sourcing.
Shabtai, a veteran of New York’s Nur and Israel’s Basta and Raphael, refers to his approach as “cooking forward.” That means taking traditional dishes—many rooted in his Jerusalem upbringing—and reworking them with contemporary methods and South Florida’s bounty. His rendition of fricassee, a Tunisian fried bread sandwich, swaps canned tuna for the fresh catch of the day, dressed up with harissa, lemon, and various pickles. The menu veers from precise small plates like “1 Perfect Falafel” (a single croquette with tomato gel and za’atar) to decadent, maximalist dishes like 1000 Layers Steak, served with tahi-amba and fire-roasted peppers.
Though kosher-certified, Mutra is hardly a standard-bearer for traditional Jewish cuisine. Instead, Shabtai is intent on reframing kosher dining as an exercise in creativity rather than restriction. His menu pulls from Uzbek, North African, and Middle Eastern influences, layering unexpected elements like tomato foam, lamb kebabs, and apricot salad. Even the more indulgent offerings, like Chicken Liver Dreaming to Become Foie Gras (a lush paté with date honey and pistachio crumble), showcase a playfulness rarely seen in Miami’s kosher establishments.
The restaurant itself is an airy 60-seat space with a wide-open kitchen, emphasizing the theatricality of Shabtai’s approach. Music, curated by the chef himself, is meant to match the dishes—whether that means Israeli folk tunes or contemporary beats.
For now, Mutra is open Sunday through Thursday evenings, operating on limited reservations. Whether it will find a permanent place in Miami’s ever-shifting dining landscape depends on whether its mix of heritage, innovation, and high-wire ambition can sustain itself beyond the initial buzz.
Desserts, crafted by pastry chef Stav Stephanie Hayun, keep the Middle Eastern throughline intact. A coconut custard malabi with rose water and pistachio crumble stays faithful to its Tel Avivian roots, while Katayef, a stuffed pancake, gets a bright jolt from sumac and lemon gelato.
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